Lebanese Tacos Are a Trend 500 Years in the Making

Digital subscribers can listen to this article. Subscribe today for unlimited access to Texas Monthly. Already a subscriber? Log in. Growing up in the nineties, Alejandro Borunda ate lunch on Saturdays at his maternal grandparents’ house, in Ciudad Juárez. Juan Antonio Yanar, the son of Lebanese immigrants, and his wife, Yolanda Beynol, packed the house with their grandkids, making for a large, loud weekly affair where they served rich, stewed guisados alongside fried falafel and the spiced-ground-meat-and-bulgur dish of kibbeh. For Borunda, the combination of Mexican and Lebanese food during meals was normal. “It was the food that we ate at home,” he says.Last August, Borunda, co-owner and chef of El Paso’s Taconeta, brought the food of his upbringing to diners with his “deeply personal” Yeyes…

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