In his book The Great Plains, from 1931, Texas author Walter Prescott Webb wrote that, geographically, the Great Plains begin west of the 98th meridian. The town of Stoneburg sits at 97.9 degrees west, and about twenty miles south of Red River Station, where cattle drives along the Chisholm Trail crossed into Oklahoma. “It still kinda feels like the edge of the frontier out here,” Wes Stalcup told me. After a decades-long career as a computer scientist at Texas Instruments, he and his wife, Becky, opened 5 BarBQ in this speck of a town, just north of Bowie, in 2021. Stalcup bragged that just last week he served a group that represented three generations of a local ranch.Driving at 75 miles per hour along U.S.…