Two Pitmasters Let Their Mom Take Over the Kitchen on Weekends 

Ask for the pork belly at Teddy’s Barbecue on a Saturday, and you’ll need to be more specific. The joint run by brothers Joel and Jesse Garcia a few miles east of McAllen offers four varieties that day. My advice? Skip the basic slices and sweet-glazed burnt ends and dig into the chicharrón, in two glorious forms. The Garcias’ version of classic chicharrón isn’t just pork skin. It’s belly meat with the skin attached. It’s called crispy pork belly on the menu, but Joel likens it to Mexico’s chicharrón carnudo, “which means, like, a meaty chicharrón,” he said. The skin is glossy and smooth, with a slight crunch and a pleasantly chewy texture on your back teeth, like that of toffee. The pencil-thin slices aren’t dripping…

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