We Found the Best Rotisserie Chickens in New York

While some of us continue to mourn the loss of fowl-centering fine-dining destinations like Le Coq Rico or Rotisserie Georgette, the truth is restaurants have never been the rightful place for rotisserie chickens. They’re meant to be picked up and eaten at home, shared on a picnic blanket, sliced up for a sandwich, or used as the base for an “easy,” “no-fuss,” “ready in 30 minutes” dinner. Their strengths are convenience and consistency — but what about quality?

This is the question New York asked me to answer as part of this year’s giant summer guide to markets all over the city. My marching orders were as straightforward as assignments get: Find and rank the best rotisserie chickens in New York.

So I set out to conduct a rigorous tasting of the city’s store-spun birds. (It was so rigorous that I was flagged for suspicious behavior by Instacart.) I called in more than a dozen birds from all over town — high-end roasters that cost $56.93 per bird, cult classics, artisanal neighborhood charmers, and inexpensive dependables from all the massive chains.

I rounded up a panel and we blind-tasted everything, only to be shocked when we learned the pedigree of our favorite birds and learned one incontrovertible fact: The chains make the best chickens.

1. Citarella, multiple locations
The Norman Rockwellian archetype — moist (which was not the case for every chicken we tried; “wet” is not the same as “juicy”) with a hint of garlic in the seasoning.

2. Fairway, multiple locations
Get the pollo asado with chile, paprika, oregano, and rosemary.

3. Agata & Valentina, 1505 First Ave.
A commendably generous application of black pepper and cayenne brings some subtle, surprising heat.

4. Wegmans, multiple locations
“How chicken should taste,” per two testers; it’s a blank canvas, with the necessary versatility  ready for repurposing in recipes.

5. Costco, multiple locations
A notably roasty flavor makes it extra comforting.

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