Texas taquerias can take any form—a drive-through shack in an unincorporated community; a trailer next to a gas station in a quiet suburb; an upscale restaurant on a downtown block. Visiting as many of them as possible for this list—which happened to be more than four hundred in about six months—was intimidating, but not exactly novel. In my five years as Texas Monthly’s taco editor, I have traveled constantly, searching the state for tacos that meet a certain level of craft, quality, creativity, and, especially, flavor.In preparation for this story, my first ranking of the best tacos in Texas, I traveled around 14,000 miles, from Amarillo to Brownsville and El Paso to Texarkana, and asked myself the following questions (and more) as I visited the…